“oo Harold Koda;-Associate~

>" first-steps down the aisle? But”
elegant entertaining doesn't:

« have:to be traumatic—or ex-- --

_ ‘pensive, Here are some point-

Royal weddings then and now
set fashions for. every bride.

When: the heir to'the throtie
of England married Lady -

. Diana Spencer last: July, the

wedding was “attended” by

__ almost everyone in the western

world who owned a television

rhe much. heralded, wed-
; ding gown by Elizabeth and, -
David:Emanuel had been
“wrapped in secrecy before the
nuptials.
Within. 24 hours: of the
_ ceremony, bridal gown manu-.
‘faclurers were boasting of |
“being able to offer copies or
adaptations of the gown: Are .
““brides-to- be: buying these
copies? - -.
They are; ‘ secording. to
Berni, Schwartz, Bridak’

~ Gown Buyer for }CPenney.

“Most-manufacturers have a
version of the Lady ‘Di’ gown.
Our own version is one.of the

fe fastest selling styles in our

line.’
R's not the first time ‘that a

.. royal wedding gown has af-
- ‘fected the styling of gowns for

the masses. The gown worn by
Grace Kelly when she married.
Prince Rainier of Monaco had
--a similar effect,-

Curator of.the Edward C.
Blum Design Laboratories at
‘the-Fashion Institute of
“Technology in New York,
thinks-that current wedding -
gown’ styling had its reots in-
court dress, once the exclusive
province of the aristocracy.

“Take the use of white in’.

wedding gowns, for instance.
Until the middle of the. 19th

. Century, wedding dresses.

weren't: always white. Girls
were married i in the best. ‘oc-.
~ casion' dresses they could af-
- ford and-often wore them for

‘pest? luntif hey could afford to :

~ replace thems." -

‘But we know that Mary,
“Queen ‘of Scots was married in
“white ‘and silver in the I?th
‘Century. Following that; the
aristocracy used white and —
silver and finally just white.

- Experts give newlyweds 7
"elegant entertaining, tips

For newlyweds, giving that .

irst party can cause almost as
‘many jitters ay-taking those.

ers from experts:: ran

ning a‘party,always invite

some Buests. who haven't. met: ~
= all the‘others. It helps assure’

an- inferesting conversation
mix." ‘- A

Columnist Harriet Van ;

Home warns, "No dinner
- “served undér the hat-white.

 glaré ‘of a1 ,000 watt chan- -

* delier can. possibly be elegant.
“Get out those candies!"

“sent jounelt Beef Stroga-
+ noff, ‘into which she stirs an
“elegant: finishing touch, three

. fablespoons : of cultured. sour -
seam. and a Splash of vodka:, 7

~ Celeste: ‘Holm: recommends,

_ -Tacy on sole use of lace.

“Dina Merfill says; “In plan

= 2 dosuvies.
-"Create. an elegant luncheon“
Party. around a dish that! ‘Bo

covert ne ~ . . a

From ‘about 1850; white be- ~
came consolidated asthe only.

_ color for bridal gowns, since it

implied ‘virginity which the
Victorian age demanded. '

“Or take the use of lace,
whichi is very often lavished on
wedding gowns,” Koda con-
tinued.

~/Atone time, ‘lace, was .
more expensive than fine .
jewelry. It was all hand-made,

‘The Industrial Revolution

broke the hold of thé aristoc: ;

" “The so-called ‘Robber Ba-
réas’ could certainly afford
lace for their daughter's. wed-
ding gowns. Later, machine-
made lace made it possible for
- good approximatioris of Brus: °
sels, Honiton and later Alen-
con-and Valencian-type laces
to be used freely."

Schwartz agreed that the
development of. special tech-,
niques had “democratized"*.

‘the wedding gown..“There is a

saying that ‘All brides are

beautiful,’ well, the bridal

gown industry has certainl
‘done its.part to maké this
true,” he laughed.”

| “Any girl who can afford

secure in-the knowledge that

‘at JCPenney she will be able’

‘to select a gown as flattering
as.one that might coal thou- —

“sands.”

‘Another aspect of bridal

‘gowns which Koda felt was an

adaptation of court attire was

in the use of trains.
“Originally,.this.came

under the-heading. ‘of con-

-:Spictaus consumption that
.was-not anly impractical for,
“the masses, bul sometimes:

was even forbidden them by
laws confining such modes of

dress to aristocracy or even
-, royalty."

-- Both the ELT. and ICPen-

ney experts were in agreement -
that the prevailing fashion

modes of various eras are very .
‘often the. inspiration for bridal '
gown styling,

unpredictable —like an tadian :
egg curry. ;

House Beautiful decorating
“éditor: Mary Emmerling:ad-~~
vises,’*Placecards ave ele-' |

gant. Think.of new and fun _
~ ways lo let your guests know
- where you want them to’ sit,
- like a:tagged gift’ or: flower at :
- each place:sctting .” es
And for elegance { in : table vs
seltings she uses one big wine _

Lay

glass no matter what She’ s

~ serving. *

‘These are just a few of the’

lively entertaining ideas ‘in a

new. |6-page booklet called
-“Bringing New Elegance to ~
“the "80s." It’s-@ free publica- ©
. dion, published as a consumer

1. service by the U.S, offices of.
“Hef, favérite dinner i isa ; perfect hostess-helper for new-
_tyweds. . a
For instance, Chip ‘Tolbert,
Men's.
Feshion. ‘Association, “Warns, .
"Never serve dfippy hors -
They're disastrous ©:

Finlandia Vodka, and it's a

fashion, director. of the

to both clothes ancécarpets. -
And’ ‘have enough fangers— -

" Vo.
i .
ad

~ or often in the ‘back are almost

*. woman from the rigid con-

" at the back of the gown. They |
$200.00 for her gown can be

. teau lype starting from just

. styles, are very often little
- Short of- breath-taking,

wedding day.”

; Page 3
Pe ee a a tne

“High ‘waisdine gowns stem
from the Teign of the Empress
Bugenie in the Second Empire
-or from what is perceived as
the Julictte’or Venetian ‘sil-
houetle. :

Dropped waistlines i in front

va

..as she makes her.
- elegant gown that's pure enchantment o

on her wedding day.

Elizabethar. ; : i
The Edwardian. styles that ws —_ . - me
are prevalent in bridal gowns
today slem from the turn of the -
century and the movement to-
ward the liberation of the

entrance ina most .

struction of fashions of the
Victorjan era: ' Bo,

“Actually,” Koda pointed wn
oul, “the transition happened. §.
visually. before it ‘happened :
structurally.

“All of these Edwardian
pigedn-bosomed. gowns are
quite deceptive, They look soft
enough on the surface. But the.
underpinnings were still so.
boned and structured that the
liberation from bondage was ©
only j in the eye of the be-
“holder."* :

Another point on. which .
both men agreed was in. the:
decided emphasis on detailing

All
Wedding

Dresses .

125% /

“during the
entire [

felt this was due to the nature. —- ©
of the bridal ceremony ‘itself -
which usually has the bride-
with her back to the congrega-
lion. -- .
' ‘Trains, whether of the Wat-

below. the shoulder or the
chapel or longer. cathedral

OS . 2 at
f ,
<7 ag
Thy, ° ,
" " ~ wee
‘ee . 1
,
ae |
fuk?
, .
, . a 7
7 ae .
aes r
sae Meee ot:
poral 2:
+ spt

“Of course, Lady Diana's
train was designed to be im-
pressive in St. Paul's.Cathe-_-
dral. It is highly doubtful fu-
ture Cathedral trains will | goto.
such lengths," oo

"But it is also highly prob-
able, according to. Schwartz, .
that the Lady “Di” gown will
remain as a lasting influettce
on the bridal industry:

“Every: girl has a right to
jook like d Princess on her

” guests don’ t appreciate having
. their-coats heaped on a bed.”

AR eye-catching idea for an : ‘
~~ @legant occasion Is “serving ees Can
drinks froma block of ice. :

. Make an ice mold by putting .

“a bottle ‘of the imported-Fin- ©
-fandiar Youka i in a half- = .
Smile carton.”* ;

RA with, water and fiécze i we
“until solid—the deluxe vodka
- won't freeze. Remove the car-
“ton. by running lukewarm .
“water around the outside:

t “ASK us “about accessories: |
wee line a tray with nnp- ;
Kins, place the vodia ice block "gloves, veils, Sing, cushions, garters, hats

£ - Other elegan arty: ideas
sia a ve of Bo Be a a te 1

“90 top and serve_as they do _—_ LL
in Reindeer country! “Ve . rae
and recipes ty me rh experts . _
are in the pointer- “packed
_ book
‘just send a stamped, se : Co e,
-addressed envelope to: Finlan- hoor Fas tions
“FDR: Stition, N New York, NY co a ed . —_
‘10150-1058. ve! Seen rice — ~ = “ re

foe wee ts.

peak he Ee ee ae ee ee