A bold Cossack style coat

| - Six decades of fas

For the woman (and man

“ too of course) who finds
” fa

shion intriguing beyond
the limited commercial
sense of what is currently
‘in', the recently published
review of “six decades of
fashion" in the British
edition of Vogue has to be
the most fascinating history
book on the market, Big,
glossy and beautifully
illustrated it is entitled, ‘In
Vogue" and described as, ‘
.. a Kind of time machine”’,
which hits the nail on the
head with exciting ac-
curacy.

There are seven chapters:
The Great Escape (1916-
1923); The Reckless
Twenties (1924-1929); The
Threadbare Thirties (1930-
1939); Fashion by Govern-
ment Order (1940-1917); The
Fashion Conscious Fifties
(1948-1959); The
Revolutionary Sixties (1960-
1969); The Undertain
Seventies (1970-1975).

Moving through each of
them isan absor bing parade
of people, places and things;
lifestyles, fads and fancies;
celebrities and celebrated

eccentrics and lovers ... all —

in a context of the ‘why' and
‘wherefore’ of fashion:

If you ever doubted that
"the more things change,
the more they slay the
same’, this quote from
“The Threadbare Thirties”
might help change -your
mind. “... and now (in 1938)
that it was in bad taste to
look rich, there was a
fashion for the ‘poor’ simple
jaok. Ladies who were still
fabulously rich went about
in plain black dresses ..
sweaters and slacks. Vogue
wrote ‘It’s na longer chic to
be smart’. ” Well! Well!

Immediately after World

".. War ILitbecame “‘chic to be
: smart’? again — an un-

derstandable reaction to
wartime austerity. By the
early. seventies fashion

| anarchy was a fact and
: Vague was writing about ...

fresh options, fantastic

changes, breakthroughs ...
“and asking ‘Is bad taste a
bad thing?” Now we are into'
the mid-seventies and, it
seems, embarked on yet
another return to the idea of
it being “chic to be smart’
even though we attempt to
obscure the fact somewhat
sheepishly in the fashion
jatgon of the day with terms
ike ‘Casual elegance’’,
“classics that are all new
looks", and talk about a new
found “emphasis . on
quality’.

Interestingly enough,
very little mention is made
anywhere in the book about
furs, This, despite the fact
that, for the first quarter
century of its existence,
British Vogue (at any rate)
catered to the wealthy upper
classes with its emphasis on
haute couture socialites and
celebrities. Indeed it was
only they who could (by and
large) afford furs.

The war changed that —
as itdidso many institutions
—i and a new more
democratic Vogue began to
reflect changing social
conditions and lifestyles.

It is probable that this low

rofile reflects the fact that
in the period under review
furs were worn largely for
sumptuousness and aS an
unabashed expression of
status and wealth. Certainly
in fashion design they
changed little from decade
to decade and were net a
part of the overall fashion
scene as they are today.
Additionally, the technology
that has given us lighter
weight furs, improved
suppleness and sheen — that
has shifted the emphasis
from sumptuous to
exquisite, had either not
been developed or was still
in its infancy.

There was nothing even
‘remotely like Swakara, for
example, a uniquely
beautiful contemporary fur
that alone, is bringing about
a whole new fashion look in
urs.

Swakara is karakul and
there is nothing new about
that fur. On the contrary it
has been with us since the
days exotic caravans
travelled the silk and spice
roads across Central Asia to
the great trading centre of
Persia (as it was known
then), However, Swakara,
the result of careful
crossbreeding to control

curl characteristics, sheen
and suppleness, is a far cry
from traditional karakul
just as the role it plays on
the contemporary fashion
scene is very different from
that of any fur of the early
decades of the 20th century.

Whether or -not_ the
remaining decades of this
century have as matiy

radieal fashion changes in
store as the last six
reviewed by Vogue remains,
of course, to be seen.

Meanwhile few will now
quarrel with view of the
present Editor of British
Vogue, Beatrix Miller who,
in a preface notes in the
words of the late great
fashion historian James

THE HERALD, Wednesday, August 18, 1976, PAGE A?

hion

Laver, that ‘“ ... forms of
dress, apparently so
haphazard, 50 dependent on
the whims of the designer
have an extraordinary
relevance to the spirit of the
age.”

“In Vogue’’ is published
by Allen Lane, Penguin
Books Ltd., and costs aboul
$33,

McGeer to remain flexible

Education Minister Pat
McGeer said recently that
the Department of
Education will be as
flexiable as possible in its
assessment of individual
student applications for
financial aid under the B.C.

Student Assistance’

Program this year.
“Our goal is to give those
students with the greatest
need as much assistance as
we possibly can,” said Dr.
McGeer. “We have
established an independent
appeal committee to which
students may refer their
cases should they feel their
circumstances . warrant
special consideration.”
Following a presen-
tation to Labour Minister
Allan Williams,

representatives of the B.C.

Student's Federation met.

with officials of the
Department of Education,
and it was agreed special
altention must be-given to
those applicants who have
been unable to find summer
employment.

Mr. Williams reported
that a number of jobs
provided students through
B.C. Government em-
ployment programs was up
marginally al the end of
July compared with the
same period last year, but
overall, the student
unemployment rate is
higher this year than last.

Students working in
provincial government
departments and in jobs
supported by provincial

prants totalled 11,200 at the
end of July, compared with
10,800 for the same period in
1975.

Dr. McGeer stressed that
students seeking assistance
must meet the criterion of
actively having sought work
throughout the summer.
Students must supply all
information sought on the
application forms, including
the amount of assistance
that might be availabie
from their immediate
families.

Each applicant for B.C.
student assistance is
required to contribute
towards his educational
expenses. The value of this
contribution is based on the
number of weeks the
students was available for

work and the provinciat
minimum wage, except in
those jobs excluded from the
legislation.

Students who are unable
to make the required con-
tribution because of the
shortage of employment
opportunities will be con-
sidered for additional
Canada Student Loan funds.

Dr. McGeer said it is
anticipated that ap-
proximately 20,000 post-
secondary students will

apply for the $30.6 million

available this year under
the B.C. Student Assistance
Program. The provinee
contributes $9.2 million in
outright grants and the
remaining $21.4 million is in
federal government
guaranteed loans.

- with: opulent dyed fox
cuffs. from the Swakara
Contempora "76
Collection, Designer:
~ Don De Sola, Toronto.

Direct from farmer to consumer. Grain fed beef in our

rh

Standards’

Ante fy, a

 Stdewale Sake

Glay Facing Brick —

in pallet loads only (620 per pallet)

Brown Sienna

Red Concrete Brick
, 1 the ea.
Founders. 7 18° aa. |

*Patio ‘Paving Stones

TT? os.
TTS os.

Decorator Blocks

12x12 inohas 95° 6a.
16x16 inches ‘] tl 5 8a.

own feed lot, slaughtered in our own licenced slaughterhouse. | os
; HELICOPTERS LTD. _ Beef 79! per Ib, oe . —— 2.1 3 fl.? oa. at | 2.35 6a. | |
te pe | Sidewalk Slabs "Ratio Slabs

2, ‘i. ~ Hind quarter. 41.09 per Ib.
. $ - \ . .
5.50 ea. 35 only 24x24" $5.00 ea. .
Plus Applicable Taxes =

Sale lasts till Aug. 25th, 1976 or while the present stock lasts

- VANCOUVER ISLAND!

7

CHARTER & contact’ Front quarter. 59° per. Ib. 10 only 24x30”
LAKELSE LAKE | .
SEAPLANE BASE |
‘Pilot Manager
Mel Johnstone
635-7039 -
635-9724

Cut, wrapped & frozen.
~ §.LS. Meats

Division of $.1.8. Ranches Vanderhoof, B.C.

567-9017

OCEAN CONSTRUCTION
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4g Over 50 | | xe com” | Moffatt Glass Top A.

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: Washers & Dryers Queen Size Box Spring & Mattress*1 99% | Frost Free Fridge a:

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