the “Tron Curtain’ By a Canadian Ex-member of the British Army of Occupation, Germany ¥ TRIP to Berlin was interesting. In the frst place the city was out of bounds and I was unable te get a pass. In spite of this I was determined to go. So I made myself out a bogus Berlin pass, and started off on the highway with some trepidation. We had been so filled with all kinds of stories about the Russian Zone that it had taken on with most of us the aspect of a fearful legend. So now you see me hitch-hik- ing along the autobahn. “Where are you going?” the Grivers would ask. “Berlin.” “Watch your step, boy. Why I just heard yesterday...’ And so it went. The stories seemea to have a remarkable si- milarity. Outside lift with Manover I picked a two American negro officers driving a jeep going straight to Berlin. After a few hours of hard driving (the atto- bahns are marvelous speedways) se came to the border. I must ecenfess that T was pretty ner vous as we reared the line. [I didn’t know what might happen, bersz somewhat afraid of my “Dasg.” Well, we =topped at the British eheck point. Three efficient looking red caps rap out from the hut and examined our papers. To my surprise mine was not Then we headed for questioned. the “iron curtain’—not fifty yards away. My temperature rose. Here was the last hurdle, what would happen now? “T was amazed at what did happen. A Red Army ‘bloke’, standing half inside his sentry box, lifted the pole barrier and waved us through.’ As we P@Ss- ed he gaye us 2 salute. You Can imagine my relief. So this SOTTO Te UOT ENUF @ Feature Section was the “Iron Curtain” with which Churchill and his journal- istic aides had sought to alarm the world. e OM the border it was then open throttle to Berlin. Every few miles the Red soldiers had erected huge decorative signs with Russian texts, mostly com- memorative of past struggles and to remind the soldier of his new prestige. All signs in English, of course, had now ceased and from now on road directions were in Russian and German. We._.met very few soldiers on the highway except at one inter- mediary point where the guards asked for cigarettes. They want- ed to pay us in marks ,but we waived the courtesy, and it was then “tovarisch” all around. Fur- ther on we were stopped by a group of ragged German urchins. They offered a large basket of wild strawberries and thought they were handsomely paid with a pack of 20 cigarettes. They had only asked for 10. That evening I put up at the transit barracks im the British zone, where the chaps regaled me with further tales of the Rus- sian one. I was warned to stay in the British or American zones, or if I did venture over, oT your weapons with you and don’t go at night.” AT CART SEE 3 ROAD TO PEACE A Lancashire youth had a par- ticularly sensational tale at sec- ond hand (of course) of one of his own company who had “found himself” in the Russian zone. Red police had there torn him from his fraulein and lodged him in jail. Somehow these stories sound particularly lurid when related eround midnight. I was amazed at how the “iron Curtain” com- plex had been fostered right up ' to the gates of the Brandenburg Tor. Se. EXT morning, bright and early, after a shave, wash and breakfast, I began my explora- tions. Contrary to all advice, I went without weapons, I passed through the Bradenburg Tor and once again the “Iron Curtain” was politely lifted. Along the Wilhelmstrasse I made the ag- quaintance, in the most casual way, of two Red Army men, Ni- colai from Smolensk and Dmitri from Kursk. We exchanged pres-— ents, my cigarettes for their Rus- Sian ones and some cherries. They took me in tow for the rest of the day. We went to Red Army clubs and to a _ service movie and then to the Red Army mess, where we ate bortsch, the real Russian potage, fish, pota- toes and chai, with dark gleb (bread) and all this washed down with vodka. Here I met some of the much discussed Red Army girls. One of these, a girl named Nina, used me to refresh her English. She was only 18, I found, but with the most adult air and under- standing. I almost felt it neces— sary to apologize to some of these Red Army men and women. It seemed to me that they had lived ten lives to my, one. ee. ERLIN, all zones included, fT felt the most exciting of the cities of western Europe. As a city it is only a shell. But this is - locales the theater to which east and west have journeyed, and have sat down, in their respective ,to regard ~each other—— for how long? I wanted to find out how much fraternization, if any, there was between the Soviet troops and ourselves, and my impression Was that relations in general were pretty bad. I could sense this when I went to the Russian zone by their reaction to my battle dress. I knew the friendly. manner and the easy approach of these same people ig their Own cities, but Berlin had “edu- cated” them. r stood to attention and saluted their commander when a troop of Red infantry filed by, but I only got scowls and angry mutterings from the OR’s as they went by. Walking along the streets I noticed Red Army men and our own passed each other obliquely with na salutes acknowledged. But when you chose to meet them halfway as individuals you could get along splendidly. I have good grounds tor believing that, for our part, the hostility. is deliperately fostered in the highest Places. In the British zone I made inquiries at various bureaus try- ing to discover if there was any sort of inter-ailied club where Soldiers from all countries could meet fraternally. But I soon found that in voicing such an idea I was regarded with aston- ishment, as though I had made some outlandish suggestion. In every other city over which war has passed you can find a United Nations club—but not in Berlin. Finally, I made the acquaint- ance of an AMG girl in the American zone. She was a New York artist on “civvy street.” Brom her I learned more about this side of Berlin than from all the news dispatches. She had been trying for_ months to in- itiate sueh a center as I was “seeking. It was quite enlighten- ing to hear her tell of the un- counted obstacles put way, and of each attempt fin- ally being vetoed by the “very high.” = in her HAVE never seem a city so devastated as Berlin. I had thought that Bremen and Ham- burg were the ultimate in des- truction but Berlin is like the thousand year old ruins of a Roman city in which people still live and strive to pick up the torn threads of their daily lives, some openly dejected, others with assumed cheerfulmess, and all wondering about the future. I was strolling by the old Reich Chancellery one day. An ill-clad, hungry-looking individ ual attached himself to me. E tried to shake him off. He spolce perfect Pneglish, and wanted to offer himself as a guide. Afterwards I was glad tr hadn’t been too insistent im re- fusing. He proved to be a form- er curator of the Berlin Mus- cum, and, as he explained, they were reduced to such penury they must come and beg like this, As we walked I was conscious that everything he pointed out he referred to in the past tense. That was the Reichstag. Over there was the Charlottenbure Palace. Yonder was the Nation- al Museum, and that ruin was the Berlin Opera, and so on. The most haunted remnant seemed to be the forum on the Unter den Linden. There the sculptures were strewn among the weeds. It was all most melancholy and tragic. One wonders whether the remaining capitalist centers will try to salve their crises as did the Germans, and ,in these days of the atom bomb, was [I- looking my last at London and Paris? At any rate, Berlin as it is now rates almost with Nineveh ard Tyre. FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 1946